I wrote my facing tutorial in 2013 and updated it in 2015. Since then I have developed new tips, and for some time I have been intending to update this tutorial. Last year, I wrote an article for the Summer 2025 issue of Quilting Arts Magazine about my facing technique. Now in June 2026, I am finally updating the tutorial here on my blog.
First things first – why use a facing rather than a binding to finish the edge of a quilt?
When I first started quilting, I finished the edges of my quilts with a traditional binding. I soon realized many art quilts look much better without a binding showing. This can be achieved with faced edges, as the facing strips are turned entirely to the back of the quilt. This technique allows the design and the quilting to go all the way to the edges, and gives a clean, artistic look to the art quilt.
Finished size of quilt – If you are making a quilt that must finish to an exact size (many challenges specify a finished size), you will need to trim the quilt to the required finished size plus ½” on each edge. (This allows for the 1/4 inch seam, the ‘turn of the cloth’ and the rolling of the front edge to the back, as described below.)
My example mini quilt “Bright Stripes” has a finished size of 8” x 8”. I cut the unfinished layered quilt to 9″ x 9″, leaving a 1/2″ seam allowance on each side.
Corners are a challenge with faced edges – There are many methods of applying facings. Many of them involve stitching around the corners, clipping the seam allowances, then turning and poking the corners. Using these methods, I found my corners often turned out lumpy or not quite square. This is primarily because there are so many layers of fabric and batting.
My methods to reduce bulk and ensure square corners – I’ve found the following methods will reduce bulk and control the ‘squareness’ of the corners:
- Use a thin low-loft batting, or acrylic felt, for art quilts. This will reduce the bulk in the facings seam allowances.
- To further reduce bulk in the seam allowances, I cut the batting to the finished size of the quilt (smaller than the quilt top). This eliminates batting from the seam allowances.
- As noted above, leave a 1/2″ seam allowance on all sides of the quilt top.
- Use single layer facing strips (rather than folded double layer strips)
- Sew the side facing strips to the quilt separately from the top and bottom facing strips. This will give you complete control of the corners.
- Cut the side facing strips shorter than the length of the quilt – the cut ends do not need to go all the way to the corners, as they will be covered by the top and bottom facing strips.
- Use a wooden clapper to flatten bulky seams.
- Use a heat resistant material ruler [like the Clover Hot Ruler] to ensure the faced edges are straight and the facing corners are square.
- Time-saving tip: after applying the facings strips, rather than hand-sewing the edges to the back of the quilt, I often fuse them with 1/2 inch fusible tape.
DIRECTIONS
Following are detailed directions to apply facings with square corners, including all my tips and tricks. My example mini quilt “Bright Stripes” has a finished size of 8” x 8”. Note that while my example is quite small, I use all of these techniques on much larger quilts.
Prepare the facing strips
Cut 4 separate strips, one for each side of the quilt.
- Width – 1.5 to 2.25 inches wide. Narrower strips look better on smaller quilts. For the example, I cut the strips 1.5 inches wide.
- Cut the side strips the length of the quilt top minus 2 inches (mine are 1.5 x 7.5 inches)
- Cut the top and bottom strips the width of the quilt top plus 1/4 inch (mine are 1.5 x 9.75 inches)
- Press under one edge of each facing piece by ¼” (you could press the edges under later, but I find it easier to do it at this stage).
- If you plan to fuse the facing strips, apply ½” paper-backed fusible tape to the folded edges of the shorter facing strips. Leave the paper backing in place. (Do not fuse the tape to the longer facing strips at this point.)
- The photo below shows how the quilt and facing strips look at this stage.
Tips for selecting fabric for facings: I sometimes use the same fabric for the back of the quilt and the facings. For a different look, I sometimes use contrasting fabric for the facings, as I have done here. Sometimes, I will use 2 or even 4 different fabrics for the facings.
Sew and press the facing strips
- With right sides together, sew the raw edges of the shorter facing strips to the two side edges, positioning the facings strips 1 inch from the top and bottom edges of the quilt.
- With right sides together, sew the raw edges of the longer facing strips to the top and bottom edges.
- Press the facing strips outwards, then edge stitch through the facing and seam allowance about 1/8” from the seam.
- The photos below show the quilt should look at this stage.
Turn the facing strips to the back
- Turn the side facing strips to the back of the quilt, ensuring that none of the facing is visible from the front. Some of the quilt top will be pulled to the back.
- Ensure the sides are straight by using a heat-resistant ruler (or place the quilt on a gridded surface).
- Spray with water while pressing to encourage the fold to stay in place. A clapper is useful to flatten bulky seams.
Fuse the side facings and square the corners
- Remove the paper backing from the side facing strips and fuse them in place.
- Fold the ends of the top and bottom facing strips to hide the raw edges. Fold the ends at a slight angle as shown in the photo below. Press.
- Trim the ends of the facing strips to about ¼ inch.
- Turn the top and bottom facing strips to the back of the quilt. As with the side strips, ensure the edges are straight and press in place.
- For each corner, position the quilt on a hot ruler (or a gridded surface) to ensure the corner is nice and square (see below).
- If the corner is not perfectly square, just refold and press again until it is square.
- Repeat for each corner.
Finishing (after confirming each corner is square)
- Apply ½ inch fusible tape to the top and bottom facing strips as shown below.
- Remove the paper backing. Fold the top and bottom facing strips to the back of the quilt and fuse in place.
- Optional: skip the fusible tape and hand-sew the edges of the facing strips to the back of the quilt.
Don’t forget to attach a sleeve and label.
I’d love to see your comments on how this technique works for you.
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I look forward to trying this one out! Will let you know. Thanks so much for the information!
Nice tutorial. I’ve never done a facing, even on small projects, but will have to try this one
Thanks for the tutorial, Terry! I love this technique!
This is really cool. I’m trying it on my next project. That’s for the tutorial.
Love your method. I will certainly try it out. Thanks for posting the tutorial.
Great tutorial, thank you. I had started to cut off the corners of my quilts like you do, so I can vouch for that part …..
This is great! I also added moulding behind the top and bottom facings to stabilize the quilt further. Made a button hole in the top one to enable hanging the moulding on a hook.
Tried your method with excellent results! thank you!
Terry, would you use this technique on a medium sized art quilt or do you limit it to small quilts?
Yes, I use this on all my art quilts. Most recently on my Swoop art quilt, which is 35 x 52 inches.
Your tutorial was great!!! You made finishing my piece much easier.
Just finished a small quilt using this technique and it looks excellent. The corners are nicely squared. I would say that it took longer than using binding but for my art quilts, this is a nice finish. Always good to have a choice in how to finish quilts. Thank you for a very clear explanation.
Will you store your 35 x 52 flat or rolled? Will that have an effect on the facing at all? Thanks for sharing!
I generally store my quilts rolled on a pool noodle. Roll from the top down, with the front of the quilt facing out – this will minimize creases or wrinkles in the quilt top. Rolling has no effect on the facing.
What a great tutorial! Thanks for sharing!
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Thank you so much for your tutorial, it has improved the look of my quilts. Cheers
Great, very clear tutorial – can’t wait to try it! Thanks.
I have been trying to work out how to do this all morning and after a few unsuccessful attempts decided to search the web for some help. Your tutorial makes so much sense, thanks I am heading back to the Sewing room now to try this out.
I did try this out and it worked really well. This is definitely my new favorite way to finish my art quilts. Thanks so much for sharing your method.
Hi Terry, I have just finished the front of my latest portrait quilt and was determined to find a new way to finish the edges. I thought I would have to do a lot more research and wala ! Here is the solution. You are right, there is always a problem with those corners ! It is so nice of you to share what you have learned. This technique looks like it will work for me. Thank you so much,
Great pics and explanations. I’m going to try this on a small piece. Thank you
This is excellent! Thank you so much for the tutorial. I know this will work perfectly for me. I’ve been wondering how to get rid of the binding. On many of my pieces, it didn’t matter, but things change. This will be better. Thanks again.
Jane
Thank you for the absolute best illustrations and instructions on how to face an art quilt! I am only starting to venture into art quilts and I have a question about the back. Do you add the back to the quilt before or after you quilt your art piece? If after, are you fusing the back onto the batting? Thank you in advance for sharing your art.
I’m so glad you like my photos and instructions! (I refer to this page every time I face a quilt!) To answer your question, I generally add the back before I quilt. Occasionally, I’ll do some of the quilting before adding the back, then some more quilting after I add the back – this gives more dimension to the areas quilted before adding the back.
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Thank you for the clear pictures and instructions. I followed them on a piece I was finishing today, and I’m very happy with the result.
Awesome tutorial. I followed it word and for word and got the best corners I have ever had. Can’t wait to share your website with my quilt guild.
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Love, love, love your art quilt and your facing tutorial is excellent. Thank you for sharing it with all of us.
Mary
Thank you for all the tips. It worked great! How do you hang your quilts? Do you use a sleeve?
Sue, I’m happy my tips on facing a quilt worked well for you. I do generally use a sleeve on the back of my quilts. On my Tips & Tutorials page, under the heading ‘Methods for Hanging Quilts’, you will find links to a variety of techniques written by others.
This is my GO TO tutorial for facings. Thanks so much!
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I’m curious how you hang a faced quilt. Do you add a hanging sleeve on top of the facing? Is there a way to do both in one step?
I always a hanging sleeve on top of the facing, and position it 1/2″ to 1″ below the top edge of the quilt. There are links to a couple of good tutorials on this page of my blog. http://www.terryaskeartquilts.com/Studio/tips-tutorials-and-more/
Thanks for this great tutorial. Love how you reduce the bulk in the corners. I cut the one side of my art quilt a little too close to the edge so that it was square. So, that edge is being “zigzaged” and your method works well in combination with it for the other 3 sides. I’m sure I’ll be able to use your method for my next art quilt on all 4 sides… LOL. It looks like I’ll be on your website for other tutorials. A BIG THANK YOU.
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Excellent tutorial. I will link back to this post when I share my finish later this week.
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Hi Terry, I just MUST thank you for this tutorial. I first found it a couple of years ago, when I decided to face my first sampler instead of binding, and I hadn’t returned to facing until now, when I am facing two art quilts in one week)) And again i return to your tutorial, it’s really clear and the results are great!
Nice job on the tutorial, Terry. I”ll try it & let you know how it comes out. Thanks!
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This method is the best. The thing I hate about facings is the corners and this method creates beautiful corners. Thankyou.
Thank you for very complete instructions. I cut out the 1 inch square of batting from each corner, which meant in two corners removing some quilting. So now it seems like I need to go back in – at least in one corner and repair the quilting. When I blocked this quilt, I did not add the 1/2″ to each side; so the quilting was much closer to the corners than it would be if I had added the 1/2″. If you have any suggestions, please pass them along. Many thanks!
I found your instructions on your NEW favorite quilt facing technique before I read anything else. Absolutely perfect results! Easy to follow and good instructions/pictures. I looked at a couple of others, but yours was the best by far. I will be finishing more quilts this way. Cindy Garris
I just finished a ~30×40 art quilt and used your facing method – it turned out perfectly! Many thanks for sharing your tips and pictures.
thank you so so much for your generousity in sharing your skills …
Very thorough tutorial. Thank you so much for sharing.
The compulsive me would keep the side facing pieces almost as long as the quilt, the top and bottom pieces just a tiny bit longer than top and bottom – and then I’d mitre the corners! But I’m really compulsive!
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Excellent detailed instructions. I had read others but never got the nerve to try. My latest Art Quilt cried out for facing rather than binding so I did it! It came out perfect! Thank you so much for sharing. I’m book marking this so I can find it again when needed.
I followed your instructions and have just finished binding a piece . My quilt looks fantastic. Thank you!
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Excellent, detailed instructions. Thank you very much. First try at facing and you have made it so easy.
Ingenious! Wish I’d have read this last night before applying a facing which may be a struggle to get good corners on. No, I wish I’d read it a few days ago before adding quilting right out to the edge (and corners). I shall give this a try in the future and I suspect it will be my go-to facing technique!
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I recently made quilt that just wouldn’t have looked right with binding. I tried this with excellent results! It was so easy and the instructions are very clear. I’m adding this to another quilt today. Love this technique!
Great idea love the corner technique
I just finished a marvelous applique quilt from Joko Saito’s design for Quiltmania Magazine, it took me 3 years to complete and when I sew your great art quilts I just knew than my quilt could only be faced. Your instructions are perfect. Thank you for all the pictures it made it so easy to finish binding my quilt.
Excellent job explaining each step, the pictures really helped me “get it”
Just used your method to finish a quilt and love, love, love this method. It made my corners so nice and square and with no bulk. I will continue with this method from now on. Thanks for putting it online!
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Thanks for this, I really enjoyed doing the technique and it looks so good on a small quilt hanging
I’ve used this technique once before, and went back to it today for large art quilt. Having tried to put a binding on it and have it look puckered and lumpy, I now have the smoothest finish! Thank you for this great technique
Hi there, thank you for this lovely, clear tutorial, it is very generous of you to share it – I think your technique here is the very best going! Sandy Simmelink
Thank you Terry for such a great technique.
My question is . . . I have the bottom of a wall hanger that comes to a point.
Would you treat one side of the point as if it were a “side” or something different?
Thanks
If I understand correctly, you have a quilt with 5 ‘corners’ – but not all at right angles. I would treat your point as any other corner. Because with my method you deal with the corners at the end, I think this would work very well. I hope that answers your question. If not, let me know – or send an image of your quilt.
I have just finished using this awesome technique and it was with 5 sides and a point at the bottom.
I did have some frustration with the pesky little seam allowance at the top of the sides that did NOT want to lie down. SO, I glued them first! I used Liquid Stitch that is permanent, but you could always use a non permanent like Elmer’s. Since my “art” will never (in my lifetime) see the inside of a washing machine much less drier, I am considering “gluing all edges down. (I do not enjoy the process of hand stitching). Thanks again Terry!
Molly, I also do not enjoy the process of hand stitching! A couple of years ago, I started fusing my facings to the back, rather than hand-sewing them. See the photos at the bottom of this post http://www.terryaskeartquilts.com/Studio/2017/07/23/art-quilt-w-and-the-3-bridges-2017-07-23/
Thanks again Terry, Fusing would definitely be easier even than gluing. Will give it a try on next one.
I just tried this facing technique, and came out with the best looking corners ever! Will be using this again! Thank you.
Thank you for guiding me to your tutorial in response to my comment on 2/20/20. The instructions are very clear and judging by your pictures, they are perfect for an art quilt.
This is the best tutorial for facing a quilt. I have been using it for quite awhile, have fine-tuned it for myself and have passed it on to others. Thanks to you for sharing your knowledge!
Your Pellon grid tip for squaring is genius! Thank you!
This is now my go-to binding for wall hangings and table runners. Thank you for sharing!
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